Emilio de la Morena is a luxury womenswear brand created in 2005. Within just ten years, the brand has built an increasingly commercial customer base resulting in the brand being sold worldwide.
Having just attended the Emilio de la Morena catwalk at London Fashion Week A/W15 (#FROW), I have had the urge to write about this Spanish genius. The cut and silhouette of many garments exemplifies the designers previous studies in sculpture as the garments fall as if they understood the shape of a woman’s body. Truly brilliant.
The A/W’15 Collection had pieces I could only wear in my dreams. The use of material was a pleasure to the eye. The fluidity of the velvet forms juxtaposed with the sharp and clean cut hem lines and silhouette, thus creating a balance and harmony between fluid and solid. During the Renaissance, wearing fabrics, such as velvet, gave a suggestion of power and wealth, accordingly giving a valuable reputation to whoever may be wearing it. Emilio describes his ideal client to be…
“first and foremost strong, modern and in control. She knows her own mind and is not afraid to stand out; nor is she scared of expressing herself in a vibrant and bold way. She loves playing with her personality and uses dress to express the many layers of her character, always managing to strike the right balance between elegantly refined and provokingly sexy. This woman is in control of her life both emotionally and economically, she lives in or close to a major metropolis, spending most if not all her time in the city. It is important that the work she does stimulates her. Whatever her chosen field, it will be one that she can really commit to. She will be at the centre of the work that she does whatever the industry and whatever the level. Don’t mess with this woman; she will have you wrapped around her little finger in no time.”
I cant speak for every woman out there, but I strive to be this woman that is described.
Incorporating velvet and other materials with the same motif puts Emilio’s psychological desires into physical existence. Referring back to his previous studies of sculpture, again, if you look at the renaissance, sculptures such as Michelangelo’s Pieta has draping that resembles the same fluidity as that of velvet.
Pieta is classed to be highly respected as it contains themes of religion and therefore linking the importance of flowing and soft material to be of a higher class. Mary is also associated with colours of blue and red. In Emilio de la Morena’s collection, the velvet material contains deep colours, again, associating the garments with high power and importance. The show as a whole was very simplistic and understated with very dominating music, giving the viewers a chance to only focus on the garments and not an overwhelming scenery or performance.
Personally, I think that by the brand displaying this subtle hint to power within their garments, ties in with the current issue of feminism, which is so prominent in todays culture, suggesting this brand supports this movement, thus providing it with a culturally aware and respected forefront.
Emilio de la Morena manages to manufacture clothing that is sensual and sexy, yet giving it a degree of innocence. This balance is hard to achieve, yet is shown to be so effortless.
I recommend watching the finale video on full screen. I apologise for the poor photography and filming skills.
Ella Elysia x
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